The day I hated my job as a surfdoc
16. September 2016
I had waited for that day. Everybody got barreled. Everybody. Stand-up pits in turquoise water, light offshore winds, and a good crew in the water. But I did not even get to paddle out that day. In fact, I did not even get wet that day. Well, apart from by my own sweat that is. … More The day I hated my job as a surfdoc